Intro:
This hike was a big improvement compared to the two previous ones on this GR 129 trail.
We got some nice tracks and dirt roads under our feet, and the landscape was worthwile. The trail took us into the valley of the river Schelde which resulted in nice panoramic views. A few windmills and a couple of cozy little villages along the way were helpful too. On the whole we were quite happy with this hike.
If the next episode keeps up the same rate of improvement, we might even get really enthousiastic again about this GR 129 trail.
Back and forth:
Lozer can be reached using the regular busses of our public transport system, but the number of busses going there is rather limited. When traveling from Antwerpen, it's difficult to arrive at the place before noon.
Fortunately there's the Dial-a-bus service. We made a reservation for line 485 (Zingem - Oudenaarde) which took us from Zingem (busstop Tuinwijk) to Lozer (busstop Kerk). Zingem is easily reached by train from Gent: take the stopping train with destination Ronse. From Antwerpen to Gent there's hourly intercity trains.
During the previous hike on this GR 129 trail we had bad luck with the trainride from Antwerpen to Gent, but this time it went perfect. No "boarding incident" and no "lost train guard".
However, now it went all wrong between Gent and Ronse. Even before reaching the first station at De Pinte the train stopped. An announcement followed soon: "The train stands still due to a red sign. We'll continue soon with a delay of 2 minutes." A few minutes later a second message: "Due to a malfunction of the signaling system we can't continue. There will be a delay of 10 minutes." And finally a third message: "Due to a short-circuiting in the main signaling center at Gent the train can't move. Tavel routes can't be programmed and the points can't be worked. We're waiting for the breakdown to be fixed. We have no idea about the delay this will cause." The train guard was a brave man, he walked through the train and tried to answer the passengers' questions. We had half an hour of waiting time in Zingem to catch our bus (which had seemed a broad enough safety margin to us), but now we couldn't be sure that we would make it. Did we have to call the reservation center to inform them, or should we wait? The poor guard couldn't answer and we can't blame him for that. We decided to make the call, but - as an accident never comes alone - we couldn't reach them. It looked like the trip would turn into a complete disaster. when suddenly an announcement was made: "We're happy to tell you the problem has been fixed! We'll continue the trip with a delay of exactly 27 minutes. Please accept our apology." Exciting ! The train guard came back to tell us that we still might arrive on time to catch our bus. We crossed our fingers ! Finally we arrived just on time. Maybe there's a new slogan in it for the railway company: "Need a good adrenaline shot? Travel by train!"
From Oudenaarde there's regular trains to Gent, and from there you can continue in all directions.
The ride from Oudenaarde to Gent, as well as the one from Gent to Antwerpen went perfect. When it's ok, we also have to say it ... even if we had to miss that adrenaline shot.
The hike:
The center of Lozer is a nice place. The little church in classicist style makes a welcome change compared to all those other uniform village churches we met along the trail so far. Along the main road which is still laid out in cobblestones, there are several taverns where we could enjoy a much needed coffee.
(click the picture for more images on Picasa)
Opposite the church we walked into a wide tree-bordered lane. As during our previous hike on this trail, the start looks promising. But that didn't last longer than a few hundred meters. The next 3,5 km. took us over asphalted roads towards Huise. We passed by the farm and the castle of the della Faille D'Huysse family, and somewhat further down the road we got the first panoramic views over the valley of the river Schelde. It was a dry and warm day, but there had been some rain the day before, and the sun tried hard to extract the much needed moisture from the thirsty ground. As a result we never got really clear views.
Just before arriving at Huise the trail turns into a dirt road and leads us towards the little village of Lede over a nice winding path. The slender Huisekoutermolen (a mill) looks sad without its wings. By means of a big signboard the mills association asks for our generous gifts that could enable them to restore this relict. What strikes us here is that the millers knew where to build their mills. We're on a small open plateau at an altitude of 50 m. and it's not difficult to imagine that it can be quite windy here.
The center of Lede is protected as a picturesque village view and the GR 129 trail leads us there over a small path. It does look nice and we decide to deviate slightly from the trail to walk up to the church. The combination of the church, the little houses and the cobblestones is indeed attractive, but the harmony is disturbed by a modern looking restaurant. Anyway, we brought our own food ... so we just turned back and went along.
Somewhat further a paved hiking path leads us into the little valley of the Rooigemsebeek (a brook). It's quite a change after hiking through the open fields. On leaving the valley again, we're heading for Wannegem. The trail makes a wide detour to get around the enormous (and strictly forbidden) estate of the castle of de Ghellinck D'Elseghem.
At Wannegem we take a rest at the Schietsjampettermolen (the mill of the shooting rural policeman). The funny name refers to an anecdote. There used to be an other mill at this place, but it was blown over by the wind in 1959. It was decided to replace it with a mill that was standing in Houtave since 1796. When in 1982 the dismantling of that mill was started, the local policeman got so upset that he fired a bullet into the mill, hence the name. A few years ago the mill was thoroughly restored using some sophisticated wood conservation techniques. An information panel tells us more about it. It sounds rather complicated, but the result should last for a while. This mill also stands at an altitude of 50 m. It's an ideal spot for a nice picknick, although the gate giving access to the inviting grassfield around the mill (with a bench) was closed. So we sat outside ... Behind the mill there's an orientation table explaining the nice view from this spot. Hopefully someone will soon come and trim the shrubs because it wasn't easy to get to it.
From Wannegem starts a long and straight descent towards Oudenaarde. The special churchtower of the city is well visible from here and behind it one can even distinguish the hills on the other side of the valley that are so typical for the region of the Flemish Ardennes.
But before we get there, the trail makes a detour for the village of Moregem. As is the case for Lede, this place is also officially protected as a village view. There's even an accessible picknick bench. Personally we think this is a much nicer place compared to Lede.
The last kilometers of our hike take us to and then along the railway track Oudenaarde - Kortrijk untill reaching the impressive Donkvijver (a lake). If there's one place where you should take a picture, it's here. The view of the tower of the Walburga church over the lake must be part of an uncountable number of picture albums.
Now the trail finally is heading for the center of Oudenaarde.
Between the railway station and the market square you'll cross a square called Tacambaroplein. It's strange to note a mexican name in a flemish city ... a panel next to the monument "De treurende vrouw" (the grieving woman) explains us why. In fact it's an absurd and sad story that involved Oudenaarde into a 19th century geo-political powerplay. History can't be changed, but it's all the more sad that even today our western rulers and multinational companies go on trying to set the rest of the world to their hand, even though they're rapidly loosing power and credibility. While these thoughts cheer us up, we arrive at the central market square of Oudenaarde.
It's the end of this hike. There's plenty to see all around, and you don't even have to keep standing on your feet to do that. There's lots of nice terraces from where you can look around ... while tasting a yummy abbey beer of Eename.
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