Intro:
Polders, dikes, old fortifications and creeks ... those were the main ingredients of a hike that took us from the Netherlands into Flanders.
It was also the start of the GR 122 path, in Flanders a little known trail that maybe one day will take us to the french Champagne-Ardenne region.
And it was an interesting alternative for those autumn days when the Walloon trails risk to be inaccessible because of hunting parties.
Back and forth:
To get to Hulst from Antwerpen, we first took a train to Sint-Niklaas. The train was delayed by 15 minutes, fortunately we had enough spare time in Sint-Niklaas so we didn't have to miss our bus there. Bus 43 took us to Hulst in the Netherlands in 45 minutes. The bus terminus Glacisweg is situated a little way out of the center of Hulst.
The finish of the hike in Moerbeke is situated at the Moervaart. From there it's a few 100 meters walk to the Wachtebekesteenweg, direction center of Moerbeke. Busses to Antwerpen Linkeroever (41S), Sint-Niklaas (41) or Lokeren have a stop there.
The hike:
We had planned a hike on the GR 129 or GR 126 trails in the Walloon region of Dinant. However, on October 21 there were several hunts planned in that region which meant we couldn't be sure whether the trails would be open. Because it takes us a long time to get there, we preferred not to take the risk and to look for a hike in Flanders.
We choose the little known GR 122 trail starting at Hulst. Some time ago we bought the topoguide and we could tell the booklet was screaming to get used.
(click the picture for more images on Picasa)
The first 20 kilometers of the GR 122 trail coincide with the GR 5A Hiking Tour of Flanders. It's been almost 4 years since we hiked that part of the trail (Hulst - Overslag), but we still remember how we enjoyed it then. However, this time we had more mixed feelings about the hike. Four years ago we were carried away by the hoar frosted Christmas landscape. Now we rather noticed the many long and straight asphalt roads in the landscape. On top of that a change in the trail extended the hike by almost 3 km. The change was indicated on the website of the GR organisation, but it didn't mention the additional distance ... This only proves that the impressions on a hike can be quite different, depending on the circumstances of the moment.
The hike starts at the Gentse Poort (the Gent Gate) in Hulst. Not only GR 5A passes here, you'll also notice the signs of the Dutch Grenslandpad (Borderland Path) and the flemish regional GR trail Reynaertland (have a look at the Reynaert monument while you're here). Four GR trails, not bad for a little place like Hulst ...
Things have changed in those four years. Especially a lot of effort has been invested in the Line of Fortresses to clarify the historic importance of the religious struggles in the 16th and 17th centuries. Panels provide information and the old sites are well maintained and accessible. The Line really drew a religious border throughout the country. North of the Line the population is protestant, south of it they're catholic. The distinction even exists today.
What was new too is the presence of a 'pole camping' near one of the fortress sites. There are lots of pole camping spots in the Netherlands. The sites are unattended, only provide water are free and can't be reached by car. You can only camp there for one night and the number of tents are limited to 2 or 3, an ideal solution for backpackers. In Belgium the legislation for pole camping has been approved over two years ago, but up to now there's only one or two sites available ...
Having passed the last fortress (Sint-Joseph) the trail follows a long asphalt road along the Moerspuipolder. A bit boring, but looking back at the endless line of poplars bordering the dyke, we have to admit that this flat landscape in all its monotony exumes an indestructible grandeur.
The Moerspuipolder is the last bit of the Netherlands on this hike. We enter Belgium and arrive at the Big Creek at Rode Sluis. Four years ago everything was closed here, but now the café of the camping site was open. A welcome break after 20 kilometers of polder hiking.
This is where the GR 122 and GR 5A trails separate.
We notice a first (undocumented) trail change. The path no longer follows the asphalted Polderstraat, but turns left after 100 meters to a path along the Big Creek. Having reached the end of the creek we're back on the original trail.
Somewhat further we arrive at the trail change as it was announced on the website of the GR organisation. At the crossing with the Papdijk (a street) the signs now point to the left. The change has to do with the N49 highway Antwerpen - Knokke. When the GR trail was designed the N49 still was a road with lots of traffic lights and crossings. Over the years it has become a highway and the number of places where it can be crossed has been reduced to an absolute minimum. No problem for a car, but as hikers we now have to make a detour to an enormous complex of roundabouts and bridges. Reaching the other side of the highway takes forever and then we have to walk all the way back to the place where the trail originally crossed the highway. The detour is absolutely uninteresting, but it extends the trail by at least 3 kilometers!
Fortunately the last 5 kilometers of the hike are worthwhile again. They fertile polder grounds now lie behind us and suddenly we're walking in a sandy and forested area where even heathlands still exist. This is quite exceptional in the province of Oost-Vlaanderen. The authorities must have realised that too. Efforts are being made to better protect the region and develop it into a recreational area.
Upon leaving the Heidebos area (forest) we're almost at the end of the hike: the hamlet Terwest at the Moervaart (a small canal). We've been hiking 31,7 kilometers and that's enough ...
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