Intro
After having reached the center of Brussels from the north, we'll now leave the city on the southside.
The northside and the center looked rather familiar, but the south of Brussels always was a mistery to us. GR 12 was a great opportunity to lift a few tips of the veil. And we have to admit it, there's some fine and remarkable gems to be discovered here, even if it means you'll have to put up your best French. Dutch clearly is not one of the more than 50 languages spoken here.
Back and forth
No problem at all to reach the station of Bruxelles-Midi by train from Antwerpen.
Returning home from Dworp is a little more complicated. Bus 23 (to Drogenbos) dropped us at the station of Ukkel Kalevoet in 20 minutes. There we boarded tram 51. Half an hour later we were at the metrostation of Bruxelles-Midi. Then train to Antwerpen. The trip took us about 2 hours. The tram is part of the MIVB transport company (public transport Brussels). Our subscription with De Lijn (public transport Flanders) wasn't valid ... typical Belgian situations.
The hike
(click the picture for more images on Picasa)
Over half of this hike is situated in a busy urban environment. Fortunately that environment harbours several parks and green areas, so you're not only trotting on traffic roads surrounded by houses. The topography of the hike isn't flat. There's quite some ups and downs and some can be rather strenuous.
It starts right away at the Hallepoort where the trail mounts through the buoyant streets towards the church of Sint-Gillis, then to the former Bareel, and still further up to the townhall of Sint-Gillis.
The Bareel at Sint-Gillis is a busy roundabout with a fountain in the middle. In the old days this used to be a toll-gate where a tax was levied on all the goods entering Brussels.
We're now entering Vorst walking into a beautiful park. The sloping grass fields and the autumn-coloured trees offer nice views.
On the Jupiterlaan there's an orientation table explaining the panoramic view over Brussel's westside. We're at an altitude of almost 100 m. above sealevel. The hike now enters the impressive Dudenpark. The area used to be part of an old forest that stretched all the way to the Forest of Soignies. It now belongs to the Royal Foundation, an organisation managing the properties of our royal family, paying for the maintenance with the taxpayer's money.
The trail signs led us to the community of Ukkel. We're walking a distinguished lane surrounded by posh mansions dating from the 1930's. This is a rich quarter. Part of the trail is not signposted here. The hiking organisation couldn't obtain the necessary permission for it. Crossing the Coghen quarter and passing by the Collège St-Pierre we arrive at the Heldenplein (Square of the Heroes).
We now suddenly enter a completely different world. At the corner of the Crabbegatweg we notice the Hof ten Horen. The place looks as if it could use some refurbishing. It's an old fairy-like pub that was mentioned by the writer Charles de Coster in his Uilenspiegel Legend. The Crabbegatweg is a cobble-stoned (quite slippery) hollow road, bordering the Wolvendaalpark.
The next 2 km. of the hike are less fascinating, but somehow we end up at the little train station of Ukkel-Kalevoet.
The GR 12 trail now heads for Drogenbos. We're leaving the territory of Brussels Capital City and find ourselves back in Flanders. We decide to take a break in this village at a tavern with a flemish-sounding name Tonnekesklinker. Apart from the name, that's the only flemish (dutch) you'll find here. A waiter takes our order, nods, and leaves us sitting thirsty. Some time later la patronne comes by and apologises for the man because he didn't understand a word of what we told him ... We thought we were back in Flanders. Fortunately (or maybe not?) we were able to repeat our order in French.
We continue the hike to Beersel. This is a well-known hiking area and we were eager to get to see the famous idyllic landscapes. However, the region hasn't escaped the urban expansion drift and we have to wait until reaching the railway line Halle – Brussels before being able to admire the landscape. Bij de spoorweg komt de GR 512 zich even aansluiten op de GR 12.
The last 7 km. of the hike are wonderful. Walking from Beersel to Dworp a lush green and hilly landscape unfolds itself before our eyes. No wonder this has become one of Flander's favourite hiking regions. Some local hiking club choose this day to organise its annual hiking event. Their itinerary partly follows our GR 12 trail. We can't blame them.
At the Sportschuur in Dworp we end this hike. Time for a tasty Beersel Blond beer.
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