Intro
Another piece of the GR 12 trail. No worldshocking experiences, nor spectacular views, but all in all a fine hike. Its highlight is the passage of the cozy little town of Lier.
Back and forth
The hike starts in Kessel, and that place is easily reached from Antwerpen. Every hour there's a train going to Turnhout. Kessel is reached after a 20 minutes ride.
From Onze-Lieve-Vrouw-Waver there's lots of busses going to Mechelen. No problem to get from there to Antwerpen by train.
The hike
The GR 12 trail soon leaves the center of Kessel and leads to the river Kleine Nete passing through a low but dense forested area. We walk along the Vredehof (Garden of peace), a beautiful garden according to our topoguide ... but that's certainly something of the past, judging by the neglected stated of it. There's a signboard saying that this year is the last year the garden will be open to the public. No more peace?
The area clearly shows what the flemish people think of land use planning. All over the forest you notice wooden weekend housings, country houses, sheds and even moss-covered tents.
(click the picture for more images on Picasa)
For a while we follow the river Kleine Nete. Where it meets with the Nete canal we switch to the latter. Along the railway we cross the canal and we end up at a tavern. Long ago there was an abbey here (the abbey of Nazareth).
The trail leads us back to the river Kleine Nete and a bit further up we arrive at the Lisperpoort (there used to be a city gate here) in the little town of Lier.
Lier is a cozy place with lots of highlights and curiosities to visit. We're a bit familiar with the place, and we can only confirm that the GR 12 trail succeeds very well in visiting the most interesting spots in town.
On the internet you'll find lots of information on Lier. You can easily spend a full day here, quietly strolling around the city. A few keywords to help you prepare your discovery tour: Spui, Sint-Gummaruskerk, stadspomp, Felix Timmermans, schapenkoppen, Zimmertoren, Begijnhof, Hemdsmouwken, Buildragershuisje, De Fortuin, Gevangenenpoort (currently invisible because of renovation works), Beguinage, …
Having left Lier on the other side of town, we're back at the river Nete. Somewhere in the city Kleine (Small) and Grote (Big) Nete have become one river and there's no need anymore to wonder why one was Small and the other Big. We're walking on the asphalted towing path, but suddenly it's closed down because of construction works. We can't find an alternative right away, and so we decide to ignore the warnings. One kilometer further a little bridge is being replaced but on foot there's no problem to cross.
We're passing through a water-rich piece of nature. It's called Anderstad, referring to a hamlet of the same name. The area covers almost 8 ha. and is situated in between the river Nete on the one side and the Nete Canal on the other side. In 2002 it was purchased by a nature protection organisation, essentially because of it's ornithological value. Over 200 species of birds have been observed here.
Along a decripit looking, but still active dairy factory we arrive at the Anderstad bridge over the Nete Canal.
The trail now leaves the river and heads through the open fields towards Onze-Lieve-Vrouw-Waver. There's quite some housings scattered all over the place, but nevertheless the trail mostly manages to find unhardened paths turning the last 7 – 8 km. of this hike into a pleasant experience.
The church tower of Onze-Lieve-Vrouw-Waver pops up in the distance while we're tackling the last kilometers of the hike. Getting closer we notice a few other towers.
They belong to a big, hideous and pompous looking building. Our first sight it made us think of a detention center. Our guess wasn't too bad because it turned out to be the school of the Ursulinen nuns. From 1841 on it served as a boarding school for girls of the higher social classes. With a little imagination you can still see the nuns sneaking through the corridors at night, spying into the dormitories where the giggles and the sobbings suddenly die down.
Later on the school opened a subsidiary in Mechelen. Even today this 'institute' still has somewhat an elite reputation which of course attracts a lot of students. Who doesn't consider himself elite?
One side of the building is remarkably different. It dates from 1900 and shows the famous iron and glass art nouveau style. A wintergarden used as the reception hall. It's a classified monument.
Further up in the village we find the church. The combination with the mayors house, the rectory and the graveyard offers a much warmer impression then the cold school building. A tavern on the village square soon whipes away the dull thoughts of school.
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